madbaker: (Saluminati)
I bought some pork to start a modern Spanish chorizo today. Then I realized... I really didn't want to. I was just doing it because I have a free(ish) weekend and there's nothing in the curing chamber.

So you know what? Not gonna.
madbaker: (charcuterie)
A downside to using the sous vide for sausage poaching: a recipe that is optimized for normal poaching will taste overly salty when cooked sous vide. Because it hasn't had flavor leached out in the water.

Now I know to cut salt in these recipes by a good 10-20%.
madbaker: (mammoth garlic)
Wendy and Josh came over last night. The original plan was to make a blitzkrieg shopping trip to Bitters & Bottles before going out to dinner, but between him getting off work late and Giants game-day traffic, there wasn't enough time. Instead we drove over the hill to Third Rail, which is a new-ish bar less than ten minutes' drive away (too many steep hills in between to walk comfortably) for a pre-dinner cocktail.

Did I mention that Third Rail makes their own jerky, and does jerky pairings to go with their (very nice) drinks? We did not actually try said jerky due to aforementioned dinner plans, but I'm sure it will happen at some point. I liked the place and when I want a high-end cocktail that's close by, that will be a go-to.

We quickly drove home and got a cab, since the restaurant is close enough to the ballpark that finding parking was likely to be impossible. Plus this way we could have another cocktail with dinner! We went to Cockscomb -- Dawn and I went there last year for our anniversary and it's much better with four people. We split the "hot mess", foie and roasted pig trotter, which was excellent; a ramp "fondue" which was really just a plate of melted cheese and ramps, good but not spectacular; and lamb chops and shoulder, which was quite good. Obviously rather rich and we didn't finish the lamb.

Neither the wife nor I slept all that well after the rich food and booze, but it was a fun night out with friends. I'd do it again, but not any time soon please.

madbaker: (Saluminati)
This week's Resolution Recipe: Zurwonada.
Read more... )

madbaker: (Saluminati)
This week's Resolution Recipe is excessively snotty: Cured Chicken (onsite)
Read more... )

Quail Ham.

May. 15th, 2016 11:10 am
madbaker: (Saluminati)
This week's Resolution Recipe: Cured Birds.
Salted small birds )

madbaker: (Saluminati)
This week's Resolution Recipe: Chicken Liver Mousse.
Read more... )

madbaker: (Simpsons me)
madbaker: (Saluminati)
I just finished Sausage: A Global History by Gary Allen. It's a decent little book in a series dedicated to food and drink - a good overview, some modern recipes, a fair number of photos and historic advertisements. There's nothing really that I didn't know, but it's a much deeper dive into the history than any other charcuterie book I've read.

The second chapter (the title still makes me snerk - "Some Historical Sausages and the Links Between Them") starts with a couple allusions from The Iliad and goes forward. Apicius, check. Both the 10th and the 13th c. Middle Eastern cookery books, that's unusual. Form of Curye, Menagier, Guter Spise, check. Rumpolt, that's less common. Manuel de Mujeres? Ouverture de Cuisine? Dude did some serious research.

Eventually I get to the acknowledgements, here put in the back.
"I have to first thank Ken Albala, historian of all things culinary, who practises what he preaches."
Ah, that makes sense!
"He put me in touch with Jeremy Fletcher, who has collected and translated a vast number of medieval and Renaissance sausage recipes."
...
I'm glad the Charcuterie doc was useful. I did not translate much of it, of course, and the doc has full attribution to those who did. But, um. Is it bragging to say that I know his pre-1600 research is accurate?

madbaker: (Saluminati)
This week's Resolution Recipe: Lamb Proscuitto Bresaola.
Read more... )
Pre- and post-sliced.
Meat porn )

madbaker: (Saluminati)
This week's Resolution Recipe is a remake of one I did before. To make a sausage [beef].
It didn't work then; it got too hot and rendered into what I optimistically called Thin James. Then it dried into jerky. Bland, tooth-cracking, dry-as-sawdust jerky. I threw away the lot. This has been in the back of my head since as one I wanted to retry and get right.
Anyone get the header joke? )

madbaker: (charcuterie)
Chapter title in a charcuterie book: "Some Historical Sausages and the Links Between Them."

madbaker: (Saluminati)
This week's Resolution Recipe, with bonus: Filetto di maiale porchettato in crosta di pane.
Or, "Pork tenderloin with porchetta seasoning baked in bread."
Read more... )
Bonus side dish: Cicorie d'inverno in salsa d'acciughe. Or, winter chicory salad with anchovy sauce.
Read more... )

Old-school

Nov. 9th, 2015 01:06 pm
madbaker: (Saluminati)
This week's Resolution Recipe: Basic Carnitas.
Read more... )

madbaker: (Chef!)
This week's Resolution Recipe: Classic Potted Shrimp.
Get it? 4:20... Pot... Oh, just click already. )

madbaker: (Bayeux cook)
Next week's Resolution Recipe, also from the war and posted now before I forget more of it: Another Preparation, with intestine.
Omelette in a casing )

madbaker: (charcuterie)
This week's Resolution Recipe is the first of two from the war: To stuff intestines.
Read more... )

madbaker: (Laurel)
I haven't taught anything at an SCA Collegium or A&S for a while. Except for Cooks' Collegium, at which I have taught for the last four years. I'm discounting that because it's a specialty audience. I just haven't been inspired.

Several reasons, I would guess. Work has taken a lot of time/effort/brainpower. The exchequer job I'm doing, such as it is, takes some - and next year's likely handover will eat my life for certain.

I feel vaguely guilty about this, like I am slacking on Laurel responsibilities. Then I feel guilty about feeling guilty about it. Yes, I walk around with cured meats and do a bit of demo'ing that way. But it's not quite the same as actively teaching people.

I don't know. Maybe I need a kick in the butt to restart creative juices. Maybe I don't and this is a pause that refreshes. Maybe I'm too neurotic for my own good.

Maybe.

madbaker: (peel)
I made popovers for breakfast. With fresh strawberries on the side. They were fabulous. Fully popped, brown, hollow, crispy on the outside and soft where they hadn't fully popped inside. We devoured them.

I had a vague recollection of having made these before; a semi-quick check of tags reveals that yes, I made these in April '09 as a Resolution Recipe. Without reading the post I managed to avoid the sticking-problem I had then. I even used a popover pan we inherited.

I should make these more often. They'd be good as a holiday breakfast - I have a tendency to default to scones, which we both adore, but variation is good.

And now I should get off the computer and start work on the three charcuterie projects I need to finish today.

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