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madbakerThis week's Resolution Recipe: Lombard sausages.
1 pound cooked poultry meat
1/2 pound pork shoulder butt
4 ounces pork lard
2 teaspoons "Fine Spices" mixture (see below)
3 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon whole black pepper
1/4 teaspoon curing salt #1 (sodium nitrite)
white wine and water
casings: beef middles
Chop or grind the meats and the lard together. Mix in the spices and continue to mix until the meat becomes tacky. Wash the casings thoroughly and knot the bottom of each casing used. Stuff and tie off at six-inch lengths, piercing with a needle as necessary to fill evenly. Knot to finish.
Hang in a cool (50-60º Fahrenheit) space to dry for (time – 1 to 2 weeks?) When ready to cook, soak in fresh water for (time). Braise the sausages in half wine and water sufficient to 1/3 the sausage height until cooked, approximately (time).
I used a mixture of light and dark chicken meat for availability. I added in curing salt #1 for safety reasons; it helps prevent botulism bacteria from forming during the curing process and does not noticeably change the flavors.
For the "fine spices" I used a mixture from the same work as cited in Wheaton:
Sources
Anonymous; Ariane Helou trans. Livre Fort Excellent. Lyon, 1542. Facsimile copy.
Wheaton, Barbara Ketcham. Savoring the Past: The French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1996. ISBN 0-684-81857-4.
What worked: They looked pretty good.
What didn't: This recipe is incomplete because I threw them away. I put them to hang in the oubliette and after two weeks they were absolutely covered with mold. Not the good salame kind, either. How the heck did they keep these from molding over? The wife suggests that perhaps "dry outside the chimney away from the fire" would still be in the kitchen, so perhaps a cold smoke that I didn't add chips to create smoke would fit the bill. I need to cogitate some more and get advice.
Will I make it again? I'd kind of like to get this right - it's the only documented period sausage recipe I've seen that uses poultry.
Take cooked meat of capons, woodcocks, partridges, or river birds, and a bit of pork with rich lard to enrich it. Chop all well together, season with fine spices and salt and some whole round pepper, then make your sausages in good-sized beef bungs, well cleaned, about half a foot long as full as you can make them. And put them to dry outside the chimney away from the fire, and they will keep two or three years, raw. And they must be soaked then set to cook in water and wine for a long time. (Livre Fort Excellent, 1542)
1 pound cooked poultry meat
1/2 pound pork shoulder butt
4 ounces pork lard
2 teaspoons "Fine Spices" mixture (see below)
3 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon whole black pepper
1/4 teaspoon curing salt #1 (sodium nitrite)
white wine and water
casings: beef middles
Chop or grind the meats and the lard together. Mix in the spices and continue to mix until the meat becomes tacky. Wash the casings thoroughly and knot the bottom of each casing used. Stuff and tie off at six-inch lengths, piercing with a needle as necessary to fill evenly. Knot to finish.
Hang in a cool (50-60º Fahrenheit) space to dry for (time – 1 to 2 weeks?) When ready to cook, soak in fresh water for (time). Braise the sausages in half wine and water sufficient to 1/3 the sausage height until cooked, approximately (time).
I used a mixture of light and dark chicken meat for availability. I added in curing salt #1 for safety reasons; it helps prevent botulism bacteria from forming during the curing process and does not noticeably change the flavors.
For the "fine spices" I used a mixture from the same work as cited in Wheaton:
Menues espices. Prenez z iiij de Gingembre z iiii de canella z ii de poyure rond z I de poyure long ij de noix de muscade z i de cloux de Giroffle z i de Graine de paradis z i de muscade z i de Garingal et i le tout mis en pouldre et passes par lesset.(Take four ounces ginger, four ounces cinnamon, two ounces round pepper, one ounce long pepper, two ounces nutmeg, one ounce cloves, one ounce grains of paradise, one ounce mace, one ounce galingale, and make it all into powder and pass it through the sifter.)
Sources
Anonymous; Ariane Helou trans. Livre Fort Excellent. Lyon, 1542. Facsimile copy.
Wheaton, Barbara Ketcham. Savoring the Past: The French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789. New York: Simon & Schuster, 1996. ISBN 0-684-81857-4.
What worked: They looked pretty good.
What didn't: This recipe is incomplete because I threw them away. I put them to hang in the oubliette and after two weeks they were absolutely covered with mold. Not the good salame kind, either. How the heck did they keep these from molding over? The wife suggests that perhaps "dry outside the chimney away from the fire" would still be in the kitchen, so perhaps a cold smoke that I didn't add chips to create smoke would fit the bill. I need to cogitate some more and get advice.
Will I make it again? I'd kind of like to get this right - it's the only documented period sausage recipe I've seen that uses poultry.
