madbaker: (Bayeux cook)
[personal profile] madbaker
This week's Resolution Recipe, which Jean and I made yesterday for our monthly work day: Liuerings of Veale or any other yong flesh.

Take the leanest of the legge, and mince it with a little larde and the fat of Veale like Pie meat, then take Parsely and Margerum minced small together with the yolke of an egge, and a little grated cheese, according to the quantity you will make, with Spice and Saffron, & mingle all these things together with the flesh: then take the Kell of a Hogg, Sheepe, or other beast, so it be good, and bind these things in the Kell, making euery peece as big as an egge, then rost them on the spit with a soft fire, and not ouermuch. (Epulario, 1598)
(Take the leanest of the leg, and mince it with a little lard and the fat of veal like pie meat, then take parsley and marjoram minced small together with the yolk of an egg, and a little grated cheese, according to the quantity you will make, with spice and saffron, & mingle all these things together with the flesh: then take the caul of a hog, sheep, or other beast, so it be good, and bind these things in the caul, making every piece as big as an egg, then roast them on the spit with a soft fire, and not overmuch.)

4 pounds veal leg or other meat
1 pound pork back fat
1 bunch parsley, de-stemmed and chopped
1 Tbsp fresh marjoram, chopped
1 medium egg yolk, raw
3 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated
2 Tbsp salt
1 Tbsp fennel seed, ground
2 tsp coriander, ground
10 threads saffron
pork caul fat

Chop or grind the meats and the back fat together. Mix in the remainder and continue to mix until the meat becomes tacky. Cut four-inch square pieces of caul fat and fill each with a three-ounce lump of meat mixture, then wrap up in the caul. Roast over a medium to low fire for 20-30 minutes or until fully cooked.

I used one pound of pork back fat in place of the combination of veal and pork fat as veal fat was not readily available. Pork back fat is the preferred lard for modern sausage making.

I used salt, ground fennel, and coriander as the unspecified “spice” based on recipes using similar ingredients in the same work. I chose Parmesan as the gratable cheese since it is a documentable cheese that has stayed relatively unchanged since the Middle Ages.

Sources
de Rosselli, Giovanne. Epulario, or The Italian Banquet. LaVergne, TN: Proquest, 2011. Print. ISBN 978-1-171-32446-1.

What worked: We had a good time making this, starting with reading the difficult script and talking through what we thought would be successful. Jean got a taste (ha ha) of how to redact a period recipe.
It was mild, but tasty. The most prominent flavor was fennel. Somewhat unusually, I think we essentially nailed this redaction on the first try.

What didn't: I micro-planed my thumb along with the cheese and bled quite a lot, although not into the meat mixture. Thankfully. It was raining (in late May!) so we cooked these in the toaster oven rather than over charcoal.
More recipe-related tweaks: We originally threw in 1 Tbsp whole fennel, and the taste fry-up wasn't fennelly enough so we added in 1 tsp seed, ground. That made it a bit strong on the fennel flavor - although Jean, Donata, and I all liked it - so we decided to reduce the fennel back to 1 Tbsp next time but grind it all up to disseminate the flavor better. We also thought that it needed more saffron.

Will I make it again? Definitely. This is a good one to make ahead, freeze, and vacuum seal in event-sized portions.

What I'm reading: Tim Akers, The Horns of Ruin

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