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This week's Resolution Recipe was our corvee project: Saveloy Sausages.
[Get ten pounds of the above meat (the leg from a young pig, skinned) without any bone, skin, or gristle, which meat has both fat and lean. Beat it with knives on a table...] After the lean meat has been beaten you can also make saveloy sausages of it using the caul or intestines - for every ten pounds of it putting in a pound and a half of grated Parmesan cheese, an ounce and a half of ground cinnamon, another ounce and a half of ground pepper, an eighth of an ounce of saffron, half a beaker of cool water and three ounces of salt. When you have mixed all that together, you make the saveloy sausage with the caul or intestines and cook them as above. [Then cook them on a grill, or else in a pan with melted rendered fat. The tommacelle can also be cooked on a spit interspersed with bay leaves; and mortadella can also be put lengthwise on a spit surrounded with sprigs of rosemary. Whichever way they are cooked, they need to be served hot.]
Opera, 1570
7.5 pounds pork leg meat, lean and fat; or use 6.5 lbs pork shoulder butt and 1 lb pork back fat
7 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated
10.5 teaspoons ground cinnamon
7 teaspoons ground black pepper
1/8 ounce saffron, crushed
1/2 cup water
10.5 teaspoons salt

Grind or chop the meat (and fat if using) coarsely. Mix in the remainder and continue to mix until the meat becomes tacky. Stuff in washed hog casings, tying off at six-inch lengths. Or cut four-inch square pieces of caul fat and fill each with a three-ounce lump of meat mixture, then wrap up in the caul.

Grill at 400 degrees for 15 minutes, or pan-fry in a bit of rendered bacon grease for 3-4 minutes per side. Serve hot.

A pound on the Italian peninsula at the time was approximately twelve modern ounces. A beaker (bicchiero) was about a modern cup. I have adjusted the proportions accordingly.

I reduced the spices down to a more palatable quantity as the original amounts completely overwhelmed. Modern spices are generally stronger as they have better storage and less transport time.

Scully, Terence ed. The Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi (1570). London: University of Toronto Press, 2008. ISBN 978-0-8010-9624-1.
Zupko, Ronald Edward. Italian Weights and Measures from the Middle Ages to the Nineteenth Century. Philadelphia: American Philosophical Society, 1981. Print. ISBN 0-87169-145-0.

What worked: We tried both the caul meatballs as well as using the apprentice's cool new toy: a 12-pound F. Dick sausage stuffer. They were both good, although we liked the caul version better. We grilled them but I'd like to try the pan-fry version as well as spitting with bay leaves. Yum.

What didn't: I'm a little unhappy with cutting down the spices so drastically, even though I agree with the logic. I can't imagine the given quantities being edible.

Will I make it again? Probably. It's a decent fresh sausage. Jean Guillaume and I talked about a future work day of trying to ramp up the spices in test batches to see where they become inedible to our palates.

What I'm reading: Jeff Somers, The Final Evolution

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