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[personal profile] madbaker
This week's Resolution Recipe: Receta para hacer chorizos (Recipe for making chorizo sausage).
Carne de puerco magra y gorda picada, harina muy cernida, ajos mondados, clavos molidos, vino blanco, sal la que fuere menester. Amasarlo todo con el vino y después de masado, dejarlo en un vaso cubierto un día natural. Y después henchir las tripas de vaca o puerco, cual quisiéredes, de esta masa y ponerlas a secar al humo.

Minced lean and fat pork meat, well-sifted flour, peeled (cloves of) garlic, ground cloves, white wine, salt. Knead everything together with the wine and after kneading it, leave it in a covered vessel for one natural day. And then fill the intestines of a cow or pig, whichever you want, with this mixture and leave them to dry in smoke. (Manual de mujeres, 1500)

1000 g fatty pork shoulder butt
12 g white flour
25 g peeled garlic, minced
62 ml white wine
0.75 g ground cloves
22 g salt
2.5 g curing salt #2
55 mm sausage casings
1/8 teaspoon Mold-600 Bactoferm Sausage Mould
1/4 cup distilled water

Chop the meat. Mix in the flour and garlic. Whisk together the salt, curing salt, and cloves in the wine; mix into the meat. Knead by hand until the spices are thoroughly distributed and the meat is tacky and coheres into a solid mass (primary bind). Cover and let sit in a cool, dark place for 24 hours.

Rinse casings as needed. Knot bottom of each casing used; stuff and twist at six-inch lengths, piercing with a needle as necessary. Knot to finish. Cold-smoke at 100° F for two to four hours with moderate smoke.

Half an hour before removing the sausages from the smoke, whisk together the Bactoferm Mould culture and the distilled water. Let sit for 30 minutes to activate. Coat the sausages with the mixture and then hang them in a cool spot around 50-53° F and 75-80% humidity to dry. Depending on the width of the casings used, they should hang 4-8 weeks until the sausages have lost approximately 30-35% of their weight.

I added the curing salt #2 for safety reasons; it helps prevent botulism bacteria from forming during the curing process and does not noticeably change the flavors. The Bactoferm sausage mould is a commercial culture of harmless edible mold used in modern processes to help prevent more toxic molds from forming; it also aids in the drying process.

Using flour and wine, along with aging for a day, is a clear attempt to produce fermentation in the sausage. While there are commercial cultures that can be used, I opted to follow the recipe to the letter. The meat is also hand-chopped, which activates the proteins more easily – and provides better texture – than does grinding.

Sources
Manual de mujeres en el cual se contienen muchas y diversas recetas muy buenas (Manual of Women in which is contained many and diverse very good recipes) (1500) Harris, Karen trans. Self-published.

What worked: This was like a saucisson a l'ail in cured form: a pork sausage that basically tastes like garlic. I was very happy with it.

Long-time readers know that my usual response to suggested amounts of garlic in recipes is "I used... more." I looked at modern recipes for suggested amounts - and tripled it. I did worry a bit that this might be overwhelming and bitter, but the smoking and aging process seems to have solved that issue. It is a bit overwhelming in its garlic forwardness, but (I think) in a good way. I passed around samples last weekend, and the general consensus was that I shouldn't cut the amount. Granted, it was a self-selected sample of people who appreciate garlic. I did notice the cloud of garlic smell when I opened the bag...

I don't care much for cloves, so I treated them like vermouth in a martini: basically wave the bottle over the mixture. I did get a comment that they added a bit of sweetness. I couldn't taste it amidst the lovely, lovely garlic flavor.

What didn't: Barely any fermentation zing (just a bit on the back). I might need to age it for another day. Also, my documentation needs beefing up. Why is using flour and wine a clear attempt to produce fermentation? Explain the chemistry involved.

Will I make it again? Oh yes. This will be a staple.

Date: 2014-04-24 01:38 am (UTC)
loup_noir: (Default)
From: [personal profile] loup_noir
This looks great! Clearly, we need to try this recipe. I forwarded it to himself, who is having major problems connecting with LJ these days. Yes, satellite connections are full of the suck.

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