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madbakerThis week's Resolution Recipe: Foie Gras Boudin Blanc.
"This is a classic sausage with a political agenda. In the summer of 2012, the state of California banned the production and sale of foie gras. Before the ban took effect we wanted to showcase foie gras one last time with this sausage."
741 g boneless pork butt (54.39% of total)
2 eggses
68 g nonfat dry milk powder
1/4 c / 54 g cream
31 g salt
5 g mustard powder
4 g anise (I loathe anise and substituted 2-3 g ground fennel seed)
3 g pepper
1 g coriander
3 g curing salt #1
204 g crushed ice
159 g foie gras, cleaned and cut in 3/4" cubes
Place the pork on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid.
In a small bowl, add the eggses, milk powder, cream, salt, mustard powder,anise, , pepper, coriander, and curing salt #1. Stir to combine. Nest a large mixing bowl in a bowl filled with ice. Grind the meat through the small die of the grinder into the bowl set in ice. Add the spice mixture to the meat and stir with your hands until well incorporated; the mixture will look homogenous and will begin sticking to the bowl (primary bind). Press a sheet of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the meat to prevent oxidation, then cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Or vacuum-seal.
Transfer the meat to a fud processor, add half the crushed ice, and process until the liquid is incorporated into the meat and the mixture begins to look sticky, 1-2 minutes. Add the remaining crushed ice and continue processing until smooth, 4-5 minutes longer. Note: the temperature of your meat during this step is critically important. Its temperature should never rise above 40 F, so work efficiently. Do this in batches if you need to. Fold in the foie gras.
Spoon 2 Tbsp into a frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste for seasoning and adjust if needed. Stuff the farce into hog casings and twist into links.
Poach in water or a slightly sweet white wine until an instant-read thermometer registers 148 F (Note to self: a sous vide cooker would be perfect for this!). Chill fully in an ice-water bath and refrigerate or freeze for longer storage. When you're ready to eat them, cook them on a grill or in a pan until browned and heated through.
What worked: Oddly, in over 15 years of sausage making this is the first time I've made a fully emulsified sausage. It was delicious: light and delicate, with foie flavor bursting through with every bite. It made me want to make more emulsified sausages. They were utterly rich and foie-tastic while being not straight foie. Having eraser-size chunks of foie in slices of sausage was a beautiful and delicious presentation.
People seemed to like them; they were gone before the party ended.
What didn't: I crushed the ice in the fud processor, which did not crush to a consistent grade. I ended up picking up chunks of ice out of the farce. Also, I did not blend the farce long enough; it could have been whipped more for smoother and lighter texture.
Also, personal note: most charcuterie recipes are structured this way, with ingredients as a percentage of the whole (aka baker's percentage). I find this baffling. The weight percentages make a ton of sense because they're more consistent than volume and scale (ha!) better. However: why the hell make the recipe as a percentage of a whole? I bought roughly 2 1/2 pounds of pork for this recipe. This meant 1165.73 kg and then I had to normalize from 741 g, meaning everything got multiplied by 1.573%. Why not frame the recipe as a percent of the main input? Set it up for 1000 g pork and that way everything multiplies easily. Jeff Weiss (author of Charcuteria) is the only I author I've met/read who also thinks that way. I don't get why the apparent standard makes things harder.
And furthermore: Bark!
Will I make it again? Not very often, but this is a beautiful way to eat foie in a way that stretches it farther without significantly diluting out all the things that make foie magical - the flavor and texture.
"This is a classic sausage with a political agenda. In the summer of 2012, the state of California banned the production and sale of foie gras. Before the ban took effect we wanted to showcase foie gras one last time with this sausage."
741 g boneless pork butt (54.39% of total)
2 eggses
68 g nonfat dry milk powder
1/4 c / 54 g cream
31 g salt
5 g mustard powder
4 g anise (I loathe anise and substituted 2-3 g ground fennel seed)
3 g pepper
1 g coriander
3 g curing salt #1
204 g crushed ice
159 g foie gras, cleaned and cut in 3/4" cubes
Place the pork on a rimmed baking sheet, transfer to the freezer, and chill until crunchy on the exterior but not frozen solid.
In a small bowl, add the eggses, milk powder, cream, salt, mustard powder,
Transfer the meat to a fud processor, add half the crushed ice, and process until the liquid is incorporated into the meat and the mixture begins to look sticky, 1-2 minutes. Add the remaining crushed ice and continue processing until smooth, 4-5 minutes longer. Note: the temperature of your meat during this step is critically important. Its temperature should never rise above 40 F, so work efficiently. Do this in batches if you need to. Fold in the foie gras.
Spoon 2 Tbsp into a frying pan and spread into a thin patty. Cook over low heat until cooked through but not browned. Taste for seasoning and adjust if needed. Stuff the farce into hog casings and twist into links.
Poach in water or a slightly sweet white wine until an instant-read thermometer registers 148 F (Note to self: a sous vide cooker would be perfect for this!). Chill fully in an ice-water bath and refrigerate or freeze for longer storage. When you're ready to eat them, cook them on a grill or in a pan until browned and heated through.
What worked: Oddly, in over 15 years of sausage making this is the first time I've made a fully emulsified sausage. It was delicious: light and delicate, with foie flavor bursting through with every bite. It made me want to make more emulsified sausages. They were utterly rich and foie-tastic while being not straight foie. Having eraser-size chunks of foie in slices of sausage was a beautiful and delicious presentation.
People seemed to like them; they were gone before the party ended.
What didn't: I crushed the ice in the fud processor, which did not crush to a consistent grade. I ended up picking up chunks of ice out of the farce. Also, I did not blend the farce long enough; it could have been whipped more for smoother and lighter texture.
Also, personal note: most charcuterie recipes are structured this way, with ingredients as a percentage of the whole (aka baker's percentage). I find this baffling. The weight percentages make a ton of sense because they're more consistent than volume and scale (ha!) better. However: why the hell make the recipe as a percentage of a whole? I bought roughly 2 1/2 pounds of pork for this recipe. This meant 1165.73 kg and then I had to normalize from 741 g, meaning everything got multiplied by 1.573%. Why not frame the recipe as a percent of the main input? Set it up for 1000 g pork and that way everything multiplies easily. Jeff Weiss (author of Charcuteria) is the only I author I've met/read who also thinks that way. I don't get why the apparent standard makes things harder.
And furthermore: Bark!
Will I make it again? Not very often, but this is a beautiful way to eat foie in a way that stretches it farther without significantly diluting out all the things that make foie magical - the flavor and texture.
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no subject
Date: 2015-03-15 12:39 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2015-03-15 12:53 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2015-03-15 01:40 am (UTC)tah-kwin-um sah-nih-tah-tis
Not entirely sure of the stresses, though.
no subject
Date: 2015-03-27 04:35 am (UTC)