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madbakerThis week's Resolution Recipe: To make bressane saveloy.
Take twenty five pounds of pork, which not that from the neck nor from the leg, but is the meat from the ribs or the shoulder, otherwise take twenty pounds of meat and five pounds of fat, which the same thing. Take more or less dependent on how much you want to serve. Chop everything well with a knife, then have fifteen ounces of white cheese and fifteen ounces of salt from Sardinia or two pounds of salt from Chiogga, and six ounces of red pepper. Make sure that the salt and the cheese are finely chopped and mixed well into the batter. Stuff the intestines and let them rest for two days, more if the weather is cold and clear, more is better. Then put them to smoke. You can also add to the batter saffron and spices, as much as you feel is appropriate.
Fine spices for all dishes (things). Take one ounce of pepper, one of cinnamon, one of ginger, half a quarter (of an ounce) of cloves, and a quarter (of an ounce) of saffron.
(Libro di cucina (Anonimo Veneziano), 14th century)
1000 grams pork shoulder butt
60 grams Parmesan cheese, grated
12.5 grams salt (fresh) or 22.5 grams (for curing)
2.5 grams curing salt #2 (for curing)
8 grams cracked black and white pepper
10-12 threads saffron
1.5 grams fine spice mixture
35 or 50 mm hog casings
1/4 teaspoon Bactoferm Mold-600 culture
1/4 cup distilled water
Grind or chop meat and thoroughly mix with spices and cheese. Rinse casings as needed. Knot bottom of each casing used; stuff and twist at desired lengths, piercing with a needle as necessary. Knot to finish.
Grill or hot smoke for fresh sausages.
For cured sausages, increase salt to 22.5 grams and add curing salt #2.
Cold smoke the sausages with moderate wood smoke for two to four hours. Half an hour before removing the sausages from the smoke, whisk together the Bactoferm Mould culture and the distilled water. Let sit for 30 minutes to activate. Coat the sausages with the mixture and then hang them in a cool spot around 50-53° F and 75-80% humidity to dry. Depending on the width of the casings used, they should hang 4-8 weeks until the sausages have lost approximately 30-35% of their green (pre-drying) weight.
The original recipe is "A ffare cervellade bressane". It is unclear whether the adjective refers to the French region of Bresse or the northern Italian region of Bressanone (modernly Brixen).
The curing salt is modern – it helps prevent botulism bacteria from forming during the curing process. Red pepper is not chili pepper; chilis were not known in Europe in the 14th century. Pink peppercorns are usually from the Peruvian peppertree and are members of the cashew family. However, true peppercorns left to ripen on the vine turn red. I actually have a packet of harvested red peppercorns; if I didn't, I'd use a mixture of black and white.
What worked: I made these as cured sausages in 50mm casings. I suspect fresh is more likely, but I wanted to try these as cured. They looked good and tasted fine.
What didn't: They were pretty mild at first; the Parm comes in a bit in the back end but there's not a lot of spice going on. Maybe red peppercorns are milder? After a couple more weeks aging I got a lot more pepper, or maybe that was just the particular half of the sausage being pepperier. Pepperer? Perrier?
Will I make it again? It's more of a novelty due to the ingredients than a must-have, but it might be in the yearly rotation. It seems more likely as a fresh sausage that I am forcing to be cured.
Take twenty five pounds of pork, which not that from the neck nor from the leg, but is the meat from the ribs or the shoulder, otherwise take twenty pounds of meat and five pounds of fat, which the same thing. Take more or less dependent on how much you want to serve. Chop everything well with a knife, then have fifteen ounces of white cheese and fifteen ounces of salt from Sardinia or two pounds of salt from Chiogga, and six ounces of red pepper. Make sure that the salt and the cheese are finely chopped and mixed well into the batter. Stuff the intestines and let them rest for two days, more if the weather is cold and clear, more is better. Then put them to smoke. You can also add to the batter saffron and spices, as much as you feel is appropriate.
Fine spices for all dishes (things). Take one ounce of pepper, one of cinnamon, one of ginger, half a quarter (of an ounce) of cloves, and a quarter (of an ounce) of saffron.
(Libro di cucina (Anonimo Veneziano), 14th century)
1000 grams pork shoulder butt
60 grams Parmesan cheese, grated
12.5 grams salt (fresh) or 22.5 grams (for curing)
2.5 grams curing salt #2 (for curing)
8 grams cracked black and white pepper
10-12 threads saffron
1.5 grams fine spice mixture
35 or 50 mm hog casings
1/4 teaspoon Bactoferm Mold-600 culture
1/4 cup distilled water
Grind or chop meat and thoroughly mix with spices and cheese. Rinse casings as needed. Knot bottom of each casing used; stuff and twist at desired lengths, piercing with a needle as necessary. Knot to finish.
Grill or hot smoke for fresh sausages.
For cured sausages, increase salt to 22.5 grams and add curing salt #2.
Cold smoke the sausages with moderate wood smoke for two to four hours. Half an hour before removing the sausages from the smoke, whisk together the Bactoferm Mould culture and the distilled water. Let sit for 30 minutes to activate. Coat the sausages with the mixture and then hang them in a cool spot around 50-53° F and 75-80% humidity to dry. Depending on the width of the casings used, they should hang 4-8 weeks until the sausages have lost approximately 30-35% of their green (pre-drying) weight.
The original recipe is "A ffare cervellade bressane". It is unclear whether the adjective refers to the French region of Bresse or the northern Italian region of Bressanone (modernly Brixen).
The curing salt is modern – it helps prevent botulism bacteria from forming during the curing process. Red pepper is not chili pepper; chilis were not known in Europe in the 14th century. Pink peppercorns are usually from the Peruvian peppertree and are members of the cashew family. However, true peppercorns left to ripen on the vine turn red. I actually have a packet of harvested red peppercorns; if I didn't, I'd use a mixture of black and white.
What worked: I made these as cured sausages in 50mm casings. I suspect fresh is more likely, but I wanted to try these as cured. They looked good and tasted fine.
What didn't: They were pretty mild at first; the Parm comes in a bit in the back end but there's not a lot of spice going on. Maybe red peppercorns are milder? After a couple more weeks aging I got a lot more pepper, or maybe that was just the particular half of the sausage being pepperier. Pepperer? Perrier?
Will I make it again? It's more of a novelty due to the ingredients than a must-have, but it might be in the yearly rotation. It seems more likely as a fresh sausage that I am forcing to be cured.
