Deli-cious
Sep. 10th, 2017 12:59 pm![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
madbakerThis week's Resolution Recipe: Old-School Deli Rye.
"When Americans think of rye bread, most envision the football-shaped rye breads that came from neighborhood Jewish or German bakeries. This old-style Jewish rye traces its roots to the breads of Ukraine and southern Poland, which produced both rye and wheat... this is the bread that sets the standard for authentic New York-style corned beef, pastrami, and Reuben sandwiches."
Stage 1 (day 1, morning)
70 g medium rye flour
56 g water
14 g rye sour culture (see previous rye recipes)
Mix the sponge ingredients by hand until blended. Cover and ferment at room temperature overnight, 10-12 hours. The sponge will have doubled in bulk (lies!) and have a clean sour smell.
Stage 2 (day 1, afternoon) ...wait. You said overnight above.
stage 1 sponge
255 g medium rye flour
200 g warm water
Add the stage 2 ingredients, mix well, and ferment at room temperature until bubbly and doubled in bulk, 4-5 hours.
Final Dough (Day 2, morning) (You have a really weird calendar.)
stage 2 sponge
285 g warm water
480 g white flour
15 g salt
4 g instant yeast
15 g caraway seed (I used 5 g each caraway, black caraway, and black cumin - I like the combination.)
Add the water to the stage 2 sponge and stir until blended. Add the flour, salt, yeast, and caraway. Use the dough hook to mix at low (KA2) speed until the dough, which will be soft and moderately sticky, is well developed and leaves the sides of the bowl, 6-8 minutes. Cover and ferment at room temperature until doubled in bulk, 50-60 minutes. (That part wasn't a lie.)
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead back to its original volume, then divide into two pieces each weighing about 680 g. Shape each into a ball, then a rounded oblong. Place on a cornmeal-dusted baking peel. Cover and proof at room temperature for 40-50 minutes.
Heat the oven to 430 F with a steam pan. Slash each loaf three times crosswise to 1/4" depth, brush with water, and bake for 10 minutes with steam. Remove the steam pan, lower the temperature to 375, and bake 20-25 minutes longer.
Glaze
3 g cornstarch
227 g water
Dissolve the cornstarch in 28 ml of the water and bring the remaining water to a boil. Stir the cornstarch mixture (it will settle) and pour it into the boiling water, stirring constantly until the glaze thickens to the consistency of honey, 3-4 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Transfer the loaves one at a time to a rack when done and immediately brush the crust with the glaze. Let cool thoroughly before slicing.
What worked: These came out beautifully: light-ish with a nice rye/caraway flavor that tastes basically like the good rye we can buy from our local artisanal Jewish deli.
What didn't: WTF with the scheduling? The copy editor missed something there.
These tasted basically like the good rye we can buy from our local artisanal Jewish deli, without the two or three days of work.
Will I make it again? Maybe, but maybe we'll just buy Jewish deli rye when we're in the mood and make other, harder-to-find rye recipes.
"When Americans think of rye bread, most envision the football-shaped rye breads that came from neighborhood Jewish or German bakeries. This old-style Jewish rye traces its roots to the breads of Ukraine and southern Poland, which produced both rye and wheat... this is the bread that sets the standard for authentic New York-style corned beef, pastrami, and Reuben sandwiches."
Stage 1 (day 1, morning)
70 g medium rye flour
56 g water
14 g rye sour culture (see previous rye recipes)
Mix the sponge ingredients by hand until blended. Cover and ferment at room temperature overnight, 10-12 hours. The sponge will have doubled in bulk (lies!) and have a clean sour smell.
Stage 2 (day 1, afternoon) ...wait. You said overnight above.
stage 1 sponge
255 g medium rye flour
200 g warm water
Add the stage 2 ingredients, mix well, and ferment at room temperature until bubbly and doubled in bulk, 4-5 hours.
Final Dough (Day 2, morning) (You have a really weird calendar.)
stage 2 sponge
285 g warm water
480 g white flour
15 g salt
4 g instant yeast
15 g caraway seed (I used 5 g each caraway, black caraway, and black cumin - I like the combination.)
Add the water to the stage 2 sponge and stir until blended. Add the flour, salt, yeast, and caraway. Use the dough hook to mix at low (KA2) speed until the dough, which will be soft and moderately sticky, is well developed and leaves the sides of the bowl, 6-8 minutes. Cover and ferment at room temperature until doubled in bulk, 50-60 minutes. (That part wasn't a lie.)
Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead back to its original volume, then divide into two pieces each weighing about 680 g. Shape each into a ball, then a rounded oblong. Place on a cornmeal-dusted baking peel. Cover and proof at room temperature for 40-50 minutes.
Heat the oven to 430 F with a steam pan. Slash each loaf three times crosswise to 1/4" depth, brush with water, and bake for 10 minutes with steam. Remove the steam pan, lower the temperature to 375, and bake 20-25 minutes longer.
Glaze
3 g cornstarch
227 g water
Dissolve the cornstarch in 28 ml of the water and bring the remaining water to a boil. Stir the cornstarch mixture (it will settle) and pour it into the boiling water, stirring constantly until the glaze thickens to the consistency of honey, 3-4 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. Transfer the loaves one at a time to a rack when done and immediately brush the crust with the glaze. Let cool thoroughly before slicing.
What worked: These came out beautifully: light-ish with a nice rye/caraway flavor that tastes basically like the good rye we can buy from our local artisanal Jewish deli.
What didn't: WTF with the scheduling? The copy editor missed something there.
These tasted basically like the good rye we can buy from our local artisanal Jewish deli, without the two or three days of work.
Will I make it again? Maybe, but maybe we'll just buy Jewish deli rye when we're in the mood and make other, harder-to-find rye recipes.
